12-18-03 09:06
No 477569
SWIM had a burst of creativity the other day while at the home-brew store (rarely happens). In the corner were these "yard glasses" you know, the long drinking vessels typically given as presents at 21st birthdays. Well on closer inspection swim noticed the end of the glass is ball shaped just like a round-bottemed flask. So this got swim thinking maybe it could be modified for use as a RBF when acquiring one was not possible. The only problems swim can think of are how to cut the ball part from the "stem" and it wouldn't be "pyrex" glass so you'd have to be careful heating it (sand or oil bath). Could possibly be better than those hydro light bulbs used for growing pot?.
(Hive Bee)
12-18-03 09:19
No 477573
Do you know the differential between pressure of a HPS bulb and a pyrex RBF? Sounds like a cool idea.
The drinking glass idea isn't a good one though, to seperate the bulb from the stem, you can't cut it securely without high-price burglary equipment, that would bring more unwanted attention, although the alternative is to use a torch, of course you would need a very good torch for that, if it is a good quality glass, it will be harder, if it isn't, it won't be worth the cutting, the obvious solution, just buy some cheap glassware, I have known tweakers who can get 500ml and 1000ml FBF, it suprised me, they were close to the local cooks though and planned on trading them, that was in my dreams though. Point is, find out how much pressure those light bulbs can withstand or just get glassware, if any tweeker can get em, you can too.
Doesn't this go in Chemicals & Equipment?
--Word on the street is, You Reap What You Sow
(Hive Bee)
12-18-03 09:36
No 477575
those ones with a flat bottom and have a straight neck that looks like it can hold a stopper are an OK thickness.
I've played with them a few times, they break when it's attempted to make the rim smooth and trimmed back enough to accomodate a stopper in the attractive neck (this is all after the black ceramic and metal cover is removed).
HCl solutions attacks the chrome paint.
It would bee good to get these flat/curved/bottom halogen (i think, forgot) bulbs to function as a stopper-less flask.
Has anybee heard of stopper less reactions using only sealent or teflon tape?
(Hive Bee)
12-18-03 09:46
No 477579
On one of Swix's little shopping journeys, he walked through the flower vase section of his local wally-mart; and through squinted eyes.. -.- ... it looked like a wonderous heavenly place of labglass.
Look at the vases; some are sweetly shaped, rb, fb, reflux towers, bulbed with stem etc etc.
WORD OF CAUTION - Swix has never used flower vases, so proceed carefully. Inspect the joining seam, the more visible; the dodgier the glass ISHO. These should b ok for lower temp activities and gentler refluxes. Heat them up and check them out...bee more wary of sudden hot/then/cold temp changes.
P.S. this warning also applies to those that use drinking glasses for activities; Swix was once concentrating methanol/meth with a long-used glass...then without warning BOOM!...Swix just let the massive spill dry on the bench, floor etc...and scraped, rinsed, removed glass slithers, and bagged....The Virtues of a Clean Lab!...BUT NEVER AGAIN
<<this gear is REALLY sharp>>
(Hive Bee)
12-18-03 10:03
No 477582
Swiw has worked with many glass vessels. Use the similar procedure to cutting glass tubing, ie. score/scratch a groove creating a fracture line or track. High speed dremel cutting wheels, no pressure on the wheel, let the speed of the dremel do the work. If possible keep light running water at the interface of the wheel and glass. Work your way in a complete ring around the glass. Depending on the size thickness and type of glass it is sometimes best to etch a dashed line, but most aplications a light complete ring is best.work the etching in short increments around all together until it is a complete ring. Best bet would be to continue the ring until all the way through the glass. Or there is another way SWIW continues from here ing. Won't post it here because it is not one of those brief read and doit procedures. Don't want to be responsible for that. However SWIW will pm the details if requested please have some working knowledge with glass. Wear gogles and gloves. Secure the glass down and beware of mindful of the 15000 rpm wheel's that will especially under presure shatter. SWIW has made all knid of vessels and also made a few piles of glass. Respect the glass the same as a volitile chemical. If the glass is thick then SWIW will place in the oven and heat to 400-500 degrees. Remove from oven (swiw has a special modified fireplace tool) and suspend inverted with the part you want held on top by the tool over the part to remove and dip slowly (incase it pops violently) into cold water. This is not a sure deal. 20% of the time the fracture travels beyond the etched ring with thick glass.
Bulbs will work but are dangerous, they break easily releasing all hell. Hcl will eat of the "cement" clay stuff. If the outer part of the glass is reinforce before the end is opend then outwrd pressure from a stopper has nowhere to go, no more broken ends.
There is a certain brand of soy sauce that makes a wonderfuly shaped bottle.
Remember this, Thicker glass is more durable but if heated is less able to handle suden thermal difrences. Heat it evenly and slowly. Place in oven on "clean" setting to adjust for any drilling or cutting done. Leave it there for a while and let it cool down without opening the door over night. This helps remove stress.
Thin glass is a little more forgiving but way to delicate for safety in a clandestine environment.
Now where did I put that spell checker key?
(Newbee)
12-18-03 13:00
No 477598
So with some fucking about it can be done, thanks for that info weaz and yeah it shoulda gone in chems and equipment, sorry people!
(Hive Addict)
12-18-03 15:34
No 477616
Have worked for me although i cant say i have cut the exact type of bulb you are using. I just use the glass cutter to score a line around the glass and then heat with the blow torch which usually will break the glass along the scored line. I then use the blow torch to anneal the new edge to remove the sharp edge and make it less likely to crack.
It wasn't Me!
(Of Counsel)
12-18-03 18:30
No 477642
Set it up so the bottom can sit in warm sand or an oil bath,and set a couple of fans to blow cool air on the long neck. Put a balloon or condom on the open top. The long neck should work as a condenser for a long wet reflux.
why cut the neck off? Use the thing as is. You may have discovered a one-piece ghetto flask and condenser. Do be careful about heating and cooling it. otherwise it might work just fine for the long wet reflux.
mostly harmless
(Hive Bee)
12-18-03 18:54
No 477648
I just use the glass cutter to score a line around the glass and then heat with the blow torch which usually will break the glass along the scored line.
SOLD! Thanks Shortest.
geezmeister, a one-piece would be a fine ghetto innovation.
a halogen globe, a length of flourescent tube to fit over the neck. But chemical resistance for sealants I found difficult to find in any detail.
I think BenWiffen pointed to black sealant types he must have had a reason I guess.
(Newbee)
12-19-03 13:23
No 477812
Hey thanks for that clever suggestion Geez. Yeah, why stuff about with it unnecessarily especially when it could be used for condensing as well? May have to give it a try now!
(Hive Bee)
12-22-03 11:03
No 478383
Swiw thought if he added the torch part and a few other steps it would be censored "rated as clutch the pearls!"
Guess not!
Hope this didn't ofend anybee!
NOT
Spell Check On Oreder!