05-07-01 18:22
No 189839
Smokable DMT from Mimosa Hostillis in 1-2 hrs
Most of the extraction procedures the elves had come up with
from their searches involved lengthy procedures of up to 32 days.Now I don't know about you but to me that seems like an awful long wait for what is essentially a very short hit. What follows is a quick run down of how to be blasted into the sky an hour or two after procurement of the magic bark:
Materials:
25g MHRB
Hydrochloric acid
Lye
Methanol
Solvent(Naptha,Toulene,Xylene etc)
Filter papers
A few glass jars
Sep funnel
Okay, basically you grind your bark in a blender - it'll end up as mostly a fine pink dust and a fibrous material, the pink dust is where the goodies are at, but the elves chucked the whole shebang in a glass jar and filled with methanol, which instantly turned burgendy. This
was allowed to settle and decanted into a funnel with doubled up filter papers and repeated several times until the colour had faded to almost clear again. The combined extracts were evaporated down to a very crystalline dark purple/black substance, scraped off and set aside.
About 100-150ml of distilled water is put in a jar and a capful of hydrochloric acid is added.The extract is then also added and stirred vigorously for a few minutes. This is to 'salt out' the dmt and make it water soluble. Next 100ml of solvent is added, the less smelly the better 'cause you've gotta evap that baby down at the end. The next step is to slowly add a lye solution to the jar with stirring,wait a few minutes and then repeat. The bottom layer will turn gradually blacker and thicker with the lye additions and the solvent layer will turn yellow. Now the elves round my way have no pH papers so they just kept going until they were pretty sure they had freebased the goodies. A lttle water may be needed as the bottom layer gets thick as hell and I'm pretty sure it makes the freebase struggle up to the solvent. Make sure you add the lye slowly and sparingly, giving any freebase enough time to get to the top before the pH gets destructive (not sure if this is an issue but better safe than sorry)
Pour jar contents into sep funnel and seperate (and Keep!) the bottom layer. Rinse with distilled water at least three times or until the water is clean. Add another 100ml of solvent to the saved bottom layer and let sit overnight
Pour solvent into pyrex pan and very slowly evap the solvent off. You should be left with a golden tar, leave to dry,sit somewhere comfortable smoke the residue by the method of your choice - the elves preferred method of
ingestion is straight on the foil and gentle heat. You get between 4-6 hitsout of 25g. Extra purification by recrystallisation is an avenue the elves have yet to expolore, maybe a rinse in DH2O - something the dmt freebase isn't soluble in preferably
Go back to your saved jar and see if any more base has migrated when convenient.
(Moderator)
05-07-01 20:50
No 192503
Don't forget to shake your water / solvent mixture
(Hive Bee)
05-07-01 21:00
No 192507
Of course Lili, please excuse the omission of the 'shake'
If that is your only critique then i am one chuffed bee!
Prolly nothing new there but couldn't find anything as quick
yielding on the web, although I admit i didn't look that hard
(Hive Bee)
05-08-01 18:54
No 192694
Cool stuff, ay? Yeah, an A/B on MHRB used to give me mind-blowing orange wax every time. And you're right; you really don't need pH paper. You can tell when you've basified enough because the extract turns from burgandy red to clumpy-looking black. Also, good idea to water-wash the solvent as you describe. I found this out the hard way after smoking lye-laden wax the first time I did it, which was very harsh on the lungs.
Signatures are for weenies. I don't believe in them.
(Hive Addict)
05-09-01 03:44
No 192802
Here is a well written FAQ for this extraction
http://spiritplants.yack.org/articles/DM
and another copy is here
http://cirrus.spaceports.com/~datalink/d
Do Your Part To Win The War
(Hive Bee)
05-09-01 08:38
No 192862
Yeah, I saw them but it was the 39 day procedure that in in my opinion sucked. It may yield a slightly cleaner product, but a'n't worth the extrat 38 days attention needed.
Akata - pronounced A-Car-Tar...NOT A-Kay-ta
(Stranger)
05-13-01 00:00
No 193854
4-6 hits out of 25g?!... hm doesnt sound too pure to me. if you have a bit more patience you can get white crystals easily following the instructions in the above link. There is no need to spend 39 days, that is only for people who are not in a hurry...2 or 3 days is all you need
( )
05-13-01 02:23
No 193884
how can something "sit overnight" and yet bee made in 2 hrs?
lifeisbutadream
(Hive Bee)
05-13-01 15:29
No 194017
how can something "sit overnight" and yet bee made in 2 hrs?
Sorry, badly worded - the initial pull will be ready in a couple of hours, but it'd best leave the the jar over night for a second pull of golden goodies.
4-6 hits out of 25g?!... hm doesnt sound too pure to me.
I didn't mention purity, the end product is a little crude, but when you're fucking around with such a small amount, you don't want too much going dowm the drain with wastage etc - all I'm saying is that the end product is smokable, not too harsh and very very pleasant.
(Hive Bee / Eraser)
05-16-01 10:02
No 194840
4-6 hits is about 200-300mg's(w/50mg doses), from 25g MHRB is what I think he meant.
Godisnowhere.
(Hive Bee)
05-16-01 15:02
No 194876
What about substituing (SP?) mimosa for phalaris (or any other suitable plant)? just "same procedure, different plant?
Chemically enhanced.
(Hive Bee)
05-17-01 20:44
No 195169
What about substituing (SP?) mimosa for phalaris (or any other suitable plant)? just "same procedure, different plant?
Not too sure, the chlorophyll might be the bitch.
(Newbee)
05-21-01 17:59
No 195944
This is probably a dumb question but is the HCl form smokable and if so, how does it compare in potency? It seems like it would be better because it's water soluable.
(Moderator)
05-21-01 18:31
No 195952
Not smokable.
(Hive Addict)
05-21-01 20:45
No 195977
You shure lili??
5meo hcl sure seemed active when my cat smoked it, he got a little crazy
. The straight up dmt hcl seems like it should vaporize even better than 5meo but then again maybee not.Do Your Part To Win The War
(Hive Bee)
05-23-01 19:12
No 196481
Referring to:
Trance Me:
What about substituing (SP?) mimosa for phalaris (or any other suitable
plant)? just "same procedure, different plant?
akata:
Not too sure, the chlorophyll might be the bitch.
Could Mr Lilienthal or any other enlightened bee, clarify this chlorophyll thing?
Chemically enhanced.
(Hive Bee)
05-23-01 23:21
No 196529
Could Mr Lilienthal or any other enlightened bee, clarify this chlorophyll thing?
Yes ,the chlorophyll is the green stuff in plants and is (as far as my limited understanding goes) the wall around the individual cells = it is the reason why cows have two stomachs, it's a bitch to break dpwn even for stomach acid, and inside the cell is...............
A MeOH pull wouldn't release the goodies on green plant matter satisfactorily
(Moderator)
05-23-01 23:26
No 196531
(Hive Addict)
05-24-01 01:11
No 196548
"A MeOH pull wouldn't release the goodies on green plant matter satisfactorily"
WRONG, TOTALLY WRONG!!!!!!!
MeOH wil release too much stuff
You will get DMT and a shit load of chlorophyll!!!!!
ie. thick black/green goop that sucks
For these I think an acid/base extraction is necessary.
Go to DMT world and ask there, this is getting old.
As lili so eloquently put it in his last post
Do Your Part To Win The War
(Hive Bee)
05-24-01 15:40
No 196662
Oh great! Thanx for almost nothing.
Chemically enhanced.
(Hive Addict)
05-24-01 22:14
No 196726
Amost nothing???
I told you the whole answer to your question!!!
Acid/Base extraction!
Time to read and search and get a clue
Do Your Part To Win The War
(Newbee / Eraser)
05-25-01 05:45
No 196825
pyrrolysis of 5-MeO-DMT HCl will cleave the methoxy and leave you with DMT(and a sore throat). makes a bit of a mess on the glass too.
"pull the wool over your own eyes"
(Hive Addict)
05-25-01 05:49
No 196827
pyrrolysis of 5-MeO-DMT HCl will cleave the methoxy and leave you with DMT
Doesn't sound likely.
(Hive Addict)
05-25-01 10:25
No 196914
eli
Bioassy seemed to prove you wrong, try it sometime
Do Your Part To Win The War
(Newbee)
05-25-01 16:43
No 197012
They say you got to "defat" the plant extraction to remove chlorophil. It's in the above links.
(Hive Bee)
05-29-01 13:00
No 197255
Referring to:
A MeOH pull wouldn't release the goodies on green plant matter satisfactorily"
WRONG, TOTALLY WRONG!!!!!!!
MeOH wil release too much stuff
You will get DMT and a shit load of chlorophyll!!!!!
ie. thick black/green goop that sucks
Thanks for correcting me foxy, my answer was an uneducated guess at best, on further investigation/reasearch i.e a dictionary, I discovered to my surprise that it is in fact a pigment.
(Hive Bee)
06-05-01 18:21
No 197780
They say you got to "defat" the plant extraction to remove chlorophil.
Regardless of what they say on that website, trust me: Defatting is not necessary with MHRB. Or, more accurately, it was unnecessary for my friends who did simple A/B extractions on Mimosa Hostilis root bark from BPC (the source), using DCM as their non-polar --> those clowns used to get orange wax every time, and that uniquely nazty DMT smell you can never forget once you get your first whiff... mmmmmmmm. Smells just like a freshly opened can of Dunlop racquetball balls... Or maybe it was Penn Ultra, or Ektelon balls, I can't remember.
They always got SERIOUS emulsions using DCM and hard shaking though. Took at least a full day, usually two, for the DCM to settle back out.
Not sure if defatting is unecessary with other plant materials or non-polars.
Everyone should try DMT, if only once, just to see what the brain is truly capable of, hee hee!
Greetings, earthling. Take me to your dealer.
(Hive Bee)
08-04-01 13:10
No 201291
"This is probably a dumb question but is the HCl form smokable and if so, how does it compare in potency? It seems like it would be better because it's water soluable."
Wouldn't half of it get destroyed before it hits your lungs, because the hydrochloride's heavier than the freebase. I do know that the hydrochloride is great for snorting, but it takes a little longer for it to hit you.
In my dreams, I've found that dibutyl and diethylether are good de-fatters as well as freebase extractors.
I'm going to help all of you cleanse this diseased planet.
(Stranger)
08-12-01 01:23
No 203568
Here's one I found snooping around the net tell me what you think!!!!
Vine has the occasional interesting dream; here is one of the better ones.
Vine obtained some M. hostilis rootbark of excellent quality. It was ground up in a blender yielding earthy red powder and fibers. This was soaked in water and HCl of pH~=1 for close to a week with daily stirring. It was then filtered through a permanent coffee filter to get the big chunks and then a coffee filter. Deep red liquid was the result. (This was done again and the liquids combined)
NOTE: If you wonder if pH of near 1 is necessary, Vine invites you to do a little experiment. Place some DMT in a dish and throw neutral water on it. Slowly add HCl while stirring and watch as the dissolution speed up GREATLY as the pH approaches 1. Dissolving is minimal until you reach around 3. Now you know why the successful extractions specify a low pH.
Vine attempted to defat the liquid, with one slight problem. The DCM came out almost completely clear. When evaporated there was a small amount of what appeared to be pigment left. Vine always gets a little pigment in DCM extractions from the original fluid whether it's basic or acidic so in subsequent batches defatting was skipped.
A saturated solution of potassium hydroxide was poured in slowly while stirring hard. As the pH reaches neutral LOTS of crap comes out of solution and the color changes to greenish gray. The solution gets quite think and you have to really crank up the mag stirrer. As it goes basic it all dissolves again and you end up with a black solution. Once you get to pure black extraction is possible, as far as I can tell. (This is pH of 10-11, roughly)
Vine dumped in a reasonable quantity of DCM, reagent grade and stirred on low for 15 min or so.
NOTE: Emulsions. Vine had zero emulsion problem. Vine attributes this primarily to the use of DCM. Vine found that the strength of the emulsion generated was directly proportional to the strength of stirring. Hard stirring results in a thick emulsion that needed two days to settle out. Light stirring (for a longer time) gave same extraction results with an emulsion that separated in less than an hour.
The DCM was on the bottom, of course, and since Vine didn't have his sep. funnel yet he used a 25ml pipette to suck the DCM out and dump it in a bowl. A small amount of the aqueous solution comes along so it is encouraged to stick to the sides of the bowl and the DCM pulled out and put in an evaporating pan. Evaporate (takes a day if you just leave it out) and observe the oil/crystals that is left. Every time Vine did this the same product resulted; a dark orange oil which crystallizes to dark orange to black crystals. Overall Vine got approximately a 60% yield assuming a 1% total alkaloid content. Oh, and Vine discovered that two extractions were usually sufficient. If they were done right additional extractions produced MINIMAL product, not worth the cost of the DCM used. Your mileage may vary.
NOTE: hydroxide removal. The DCM always pulls some hydroxide along and it ends up in the crystals and is very annoying when smoked. Washing the extracted DCM with pure water helped, as did leaving some water on top of the evaporating DCM. Swishing water over the crystals in the dish also seems to help. Vine hasn't had enough time to do fully experiments in this area. Has anyone else?
Vine's first DMT experience:
It was one helluva trip. Let me explain. Vine has a nice .0001g balance that was freshly purchased in the above dream. It's a mechanical balance and had several protective devices for shipping and Vine missed one that only threw off the result a small amount. The DMT was just about the first thing weighed and Vine THOUGHT he was getting a 20mg dose when what he probably had was close to 100mg. A small test tube was altered to make a nice DMT pipe and the dose loaded in. Vine took it out in the woods and sat down with back to a low bush. Since Vine wanted to get the FULL 20mg (ha!) down, the pipe was heated vigorously with a small butane torch. Thick white vapor appeared and was eagerly inhaled. It went down very smooth, was not harsh in the least bit or even tasted of anything. (This turned out to be normal w/ Vine, others who tried found it quite harsh. Vine doesn't know why he tolerates the vapor so well). Vine was concentrating on the smoking so it was a total surprise when suddenly a strong buzzing appeared. he finished inhaling and sat up. The buzzing was rising in volume rapidly. Vision was becoming slightly blurred. Vine realized he'd better put the pipe and torch down FAST! Right as they were set down the forest MORPHED in the space of a second into an alien landscape. It was supernaturally clear and bright. The same scenery was there, but it looked wholly alien and fractalated; the leaves were sets of fractals. Little gremlins were popping up behind the trees and bushes. This vision lasted about 3 seconds then began to fade. Vine was still going up like a rocketship and was scared shitless as this was CONSIDERABLY more than he was expecting, and he was rather inexperienced w/ hallucinogens having had just two shroom trips, a low dose and a HIGH dose. (both were incredibly wonderful, esp. the high dose) It felt like the ego was desperately running away and the DMT was RAPIDLY catching up. Right after the forest started to fade Vine lay back against the bush (the leaves crackling sounded VERY loud) and closed his eyes. About this point the DMT caught up and Vine's memory after this point is rather hazy. At some point Vine experienced the same loss of identity that the large shroom dose induced; he could name significant people in his life and the words meant NOTHING. Father, who/what is father? Vine also remembers seeing a line of odd looking gnomes with pasty white skin and long skinny limbs passing him from hand to hand while muttering unintelligibly all the while. Some time after this the world slowly came back into awareness. Vine was VERY shaky and just lay there for around 20 mins. Afterwards he was EUPHORIC (normally right after a dose, even a small one Vine feels quite euphoric, though not always) and very excited. Vine didn't remember ANYTHING after the forest vision at first. It wasn't until a month later that the rest was unlocked during a session w/ another wonderful entheogen. Vine guesses he had a MONSTROUS dose as no subsequent trip has produced such an mind-blowing experience. It was really something, came on with FANTASTIC rapidity. No subsequent dose has come on so fast.
Feel free to ask questions. This procedure is ridiculously easy. Vine could do it with his eyes closed. Vine thinks he knows why so many fail. They try to take shortcuts. Case in point. Vine is BEWILDERED as to why ppl would waste so much as a MILLISECOND with phalaris. Yields are LOW, the product is 5meo, NOT DMT, and much labor is involved in growing/preparation. For a small amount of $$ one can have high quality mimosa from such places as ***. A 50mg dose of DMT costs Vine around $2.
Second, Vine has grave suspicions concerning the use of naphtha as a nonpolar solvent for DMT. See his previous post for details. Vine HIGHLY recommends the use of DCM.
Third, get the pH right. Get it down close to 1. After an extraction or two one doesn't even need to measure it at the high end, just look for the glossy black aqueous solution (same color as grand pianos)
Vine did discover that he could do it without ANY fancy lab eq. All one needs are some glass containers, a pipette, evaporating dish, some bowls, and coffee filters. The critical items are the consumables.
Vine is telling all now as the chemistry is done and danger of exposure past. He has enough D to last him for awhile.
Feel free to ask questions. Good luck on your own extraction. DMT is a wonderful substance!
--Vine
(Hive Addict)
08-15-01 17:01
No 204777
As far as I know, MHRB is the best plant matter to extract, because it has a high DMT content. I've tried growing the plant, but it's a slow grower. I was thinking about extracting phalaris a. again, because it's easy to grow, but alot of folks have been talking shit about phalaris, because of the low DMT content, and I agree. What other plants out there are easy to grow and have at least a moderate amount of DMT worth an extraction? Alot of the literature I've found provides info on tryptamine concentration, but less on how to grow. I'm looking for less text book stuff, and more actual experience. Peace and happy cookin'!
I'm going to help all of you cleanse this diseased planet.
(Newbee)
08-15-01 18:55
No 204807
Desmanthus illinoiensis (& D. leptolobus) should give something usable in 2-3 years...
i've got some whole plants uprooted last year sitting in my garage, waiting for a final cleaning prior to shredding & soaking in white vinegar (i will process the aerial portion and the subterranean portion seperately...)
& if i like the results, mebbe pick up 1/4 # seeds for sowing purposes...
don't you folks ever sleep?
(Hive Bee)
08-16-01 18:23
No 205131
Bwiti,
Wouldn't the ease of growing (growth speed, easy reproduction, etc...) compensate for the low (but present) amount of DMT? I think it is well worth the try. Besides it *is* a nice shrub to have on your back yard
Chemically enhanced.
(Hive Addict)
08-16-01 21:03
No 205182
"Wouldn't the ease of growing (growth speed, easy reproduction, etc...) compensate for the low (but present) amount of DMT?"
Yes, it's the best idea for an impatient person like me that always wants something yesterday. If 5-MEO-DMT was cheaper, than I wouldn't fuck with phalaris.
I'm going to help all of you cleanse this diseased planet.
(Hive Addict)
08-19-01 20:14
No 205866
Recently, I've noticed that a certain company is selling mimosa hostilis from Brazil at an insane price, while the price of the Mexican m. hostilis is reasonable. Is this because of a higher DMT content in the Brazilian type??
I'm going to help all of you cleanse this diseased planet.
(Hive Bee)
07-22-02 23:27
No 335900
These are VERY basic questions from an old post, so I'm sorry to bother my more erudite companions, but I would like the help.
These are taken from the seminal (and most excellent) post of this thread since many posts have come since then.
>Materials:
>25g MHRB
>Hydrochloric acid
>Lye
>Methanol
>Solvent(Naptha,Toulene,Xylene etc)
>Filter papers
>A few glass jars
>Sep funnel
Q1: The lye intended in this lye is Red Devil Lye a.k.a. NaOH, correct? Can I just use the NaOH from a lab without any modifications to the procedure?
>Okay, basically you grind your bark in a blender - it'll >end up as mostly a fine pink dust and a fibrous material, >the pink dust is where the goodies are at, but the elves >chucked the whole shebang in a glass jar and filled with >methanol, which instantly turned burgendy. This
>was allowed to settle and decanted into a funnel with >doubled up filter papers and repeated several times until >the colour had faded to almost clear again. The combined >extracts were evaporated down to a very crystalline dark >purple/black substance, scraped off and set aside.
Q2: Alright, here is where my complete ignorance shines. This is how I understand this tep, please correct or confirm (I'm guessing the former). So I run the powder/methanol solution through the funnel and discard the solids that the filters keep out. Then I keep running the methanol through the filter papers (new ones each time, I presume) until it turns clear again.
>Pour jar contents into sep funnel and seperate (and Keep!) >the bottom layer. Rinse with distilled water at least >three times or until the water is clean.
Q3: What do I rinse with water here? And to separate the two layers what is the physical procedure I need to do?
>Add another 100ml of solvent to the saved bottom layer and >let sit overnight
>Pour solvent into pyrex pan and very slowly evap the >solvent off.
Q4: For this procedure, I could use generic re/crystallization techniques with ice baths, etc., right?
>Go back to your saved jar and see if any more base has >migrated when convenient.
Q5: The saved jar is the one that was originally the thick bottom layer, right?
Rainbows & Butterflies Forever :)
(Hive Bee)
07-23-02 02:42
No 335974
I love helping others produce this wonder drug. Its realy easy to extract. Answer to Q1: Of course you can. Answer to Q2: you are simply extracting the the crud tar from the mimosa. Just mix MeOH with the mimosa (preforably warmed MeOH if you have a hotplate), shake it up and filter. You want to make sure you got all the tar out of the mhrb, so you add new MeOH to the wood and extract again. If the MeOH after the second extraction is pretty clear, than you know you have all the tar extracted. Then you discard the MHRB and evaporate the methanol. Or you could filter the methanol again befor evaporation, but it's not needed. Simple as that. A to Q4: You drain off the black liquid (into another container and save) than you add water to the sep funnel with the solvent (containing DMT), shake the sep funnel (this is washing the solvent), let the solvent and water separate, drain off water and evaporate solvent. There, your done. A to Q4: Forget about that, just scrap up wax with a razor and smoke it. A to Q5: yes ther is still some dmt in the black liquid.
(Hive Addict)
07-23-02 03:13
No 335983
bwiti, supposivly there is a slightly higher content, although swim believes it is just net lore, as he has tried both and gets pretty close to the same yeilds with either. Remember also, from plant to plant there is obviously going to bee different alkaloid content. Go for the cheap stuff, and buy more
i FEEL funny.
(Hive Bee)
07-23-02 04:01
No 335997
You will suceed, if the mimosa is good. Here is an absolutly foolproof method to have DMT whithin two weeks from now. Its basically Akata's method with slight variation.
1. Go to www.Ayahuasca.com read the reviews of the vendors and order from the one that seems best. Order at least 60g so you get two chances.
2. Powderize 30g mimosa in a blender. Continue blending for15min until there are no more chrunching sounds.
3. Remove container from blender base. Pour in a 500ml or so MeOH or denatured alchohol. Shake the container for 15min or so. Filter the mixture through coffee filters.
4. Pour the red MeOH solution onto a pyrex baking dish and evaporate the MeOH away. At first the remaining tar will be very runny. There is still MeOH. Continue evaporating the MeOH away until the tar is very thick and solid. To speed this up, place the dish full of runny tar on a warm hotplate, with the fan still on it, and use spoon or spatula so mush around the tar like your cooking scrambled eggs.
5. Once the tar is dry,leave the tar in the dish. Mix 1ml of HCl with a cup of water. Pour the cup of water into the dish of tar. Use a spoon to mix the tar into the water for a few minutes. Try to expose as much area of the tar to the water as you can. Filter the red water through a couple of cofee filters. If your aiming for pure DMT, than the red water shold be filtered untill transparent. Once filtered, I think it should be nuetralized with baking soda because I hear its not good to let the DMT sit with HCl for to long. I also was told its possible to extract the dmt from the tar by using hot neutral water. That would probably be better.
6. Pour the grey water (grey after adding baking soda) into a soda bottle. Dissolve a table spoon of NaOH in a cup of water and let it cool. Slowly add the NaOH water in small increments with stirring. Once you see the solution turn black, stop. Continue stirring. If it remains black, proceed to next step. If not, continue adding NaOH with stirring until it remains black.
7. Pour into the sodabottle a couple cups of your solvent (toluen works like a charm, naptha is ok also). Screw the cap on the bottle and SHAKE SHAKE SHAKE. Do that for 15 min or so then put the bottle in the freezer. The water will freeze, your solvent wont. So just pour of your DMT containing solvent into another 2L soda bottle for the next step!
8. Pour 1L of distilled water into the bottle with the solvent. SHAKE SHAKE SHAKE. Put in freezer as befor. When frozen, pour solvent off the block of ice and into your clean evaporation dish. Evaporate with a fan (no heat at all). Now there are going to be droplets of water on your dish. You can wait for it to dry, or if your realy impatiant and your sure its water and not solvent, you can lightly dab the dish with a piece of toilet paper. Try scraping the initialy goey DMT up with a razor than spread it back ont the glass. Repeating this apperently helps solidify the DMT. One time I got yellow goo that didn't solidify and the stuff was CRAP. Probably polymorized DMT. Use two razors, one to scrap the stuff off from the dish, the other to scrap the stuff off from the razor so as to form nice little balls of DMT.
A green pea sized ball of dmt is about 25mg. I think smoking less than 50mg is a wast. Smoke the stuff out of a test tube or a light bulb. Use a staw trom a pen (dont use drinking straws, they melt shut). Exhale all the air out of you lungs, heat up the test tube untill you see smoke, inhale deep and slow. Hold it in for a count to ten befor you take you next hit.
(Stranger)
07-23-02 20:22
No 336181
Perhaps this is already published at the Hive somewhere, but according to some old notes of me, naphta is great for recrystallization/purification of DMT. The freebase dissolves at 50 centigrade or so, but almost not before that temp. At minus 20 centigrade it slowly recrystallizes.
Dissolving the pea sized balls from Ghost_Of_BT's post in a tube filled with a few ml of Naphta, which is warmed up in a glass of hot water, then cooled and finally frozen leaves amazingly pure crystals.
bibliopharmacophile
(Hive Bee)
07-27-02 08:01
No 337608
Naptha and Ether seem to work the best as a NP for DMT. Careful when heating it, its easy to evap. the whole thing away. Use minimal heat if needed at all. Let it evap. slowly, with no heat and preferably no fan if you have the patience - even maybe try letting it evap. in the fridge - remember slow evaporation = beautiful aesthetically pleasing crystals.
MaDMAx got swinl started on performing two A/B extractions instead of just one. When in base form wash with water and brine to wash away impurities, but mostly NaOH (very important if you want it to be a rock and not goo!). When its a salt and dissolved in water, wash it (defatting I guess) with a non-polar each time (not just at the beginning) - xylene, DCM, possibly Naptha. Also, xylene works better as a NP initially because you don't have to heat it as with Naptha - freebases dissolve more readily and in higher concentration in Xylene (or tolly for that matter). So don't use Naptha until the end.
Also, Once filtered, I think it should be nuetralized with baking soda because I hear its not good to let the DMT sit with HCl for to long.
I don't know about this - swinl's let the shit sit in HCl for weeks at a time before and still had consistent results. You don't seem to be able to over-acidify or over-basify (within reason). Extreme PH's are good with MHRB - some even say necessary. Go from 0 to 14.
Oh and filter the living fuck out of it at any stage necessary and a lot at the beginning - especially if you have an emulsion. Sometimes semi-solid crap will pull right through your coffee filters until a pH change occurs and then it hardens enough to be trapped by the filters. Start filtering with a paper towel, then coffee filters, then doubled, tripled, etc., use actual filter paper if available.
The freezing and pouring sucks. Make a ghetto rig sep funnel if you feel up to it. Check it. Get two 4L wine bottles - cheap shit, $10 from the grocery - has some old Italian looking dude on the label. Of course empty them and here's where it gets tricky ...on one of them, you want to break off the bottom only - or break a decent sized hole in the bottom. Use a thick towel, screwdriver and a hammer (or glass cutter I suppose if available). Try to chisel at the glass - all you really need is a hole in the bottom to pour through and allow air to travel when emptying so it doesn't suck air bubbles in as fluid escapes through the same hole disrupting your perfect line of separation. Leave the other jug intact. Oh yeah, while at the grocery store, buy a standard bottle of mustard. Take off the cap and clean off any mustard on it. If you got the right jug of wine, the twist top to it will fit the wine jug perfectly (teflon tape may help prevent leaks, but in swinl's experience it caused leaks more than prevented). The cap also fits 3L soda bottles (but not 2L mind you) if you really want to be ghetto - but this won't last as long as the glass wine jugs - love those things. Somehow suspend the jug upside down (the one with the hole) - maybe try using one of those plant stands that holds plant pots. Put a jar underneath the broken jug to catch any leaks that may occur. Now with the other jug you can shake shit up, then pour it into the suspended jug to let it separate. You can be pretty accurate with that mustard cap and control the rate of drip decent enough. Congrats, now you have essentially a decent 4L sep. funnel (pricey and depressing as all hell when they break - especially when full of precious materials). Hope this helped someone. Glad I type fast. Also just for due cred.'s - for me, this last idea was inspired by PoohBear4Ever who pointed out that mustard caps fit 3L soda bottles - I just modified the idea and added some details. Never done it - but its a backup plan in case swinl ever ends up in a tight spot (breaks his 4L sep.'s or something
).
(Hive Bee)
07-27-02 19:36
No 337755
I know for a fact that the DMT/NaOH solution is unstable (Lilienthal said so). And I have a real sep funnel, freezind and pouring is good if you just dont want to deal with the emulsion and dont mind waiting overnight.
(Stranger)
07-29-02 11:30
No 338454
The technique as mirrored at
http://cirrus.spaceports.com/~datalink/d
looks great but I have a gutfeeling that the yields are low. Heating tannins and desirable alkaloids together in a dilute acidic environment means tar isn't it?
But an overnight cold water extraction in a very acidic environment (HCl, pH1) may hydrolize the tannins. So I have heard. Is that true?
bibliopharmacophile
(Newbee)
07-29-02 15:59
No 338523
tannins aren't a big problem,
just check this post:
Post 336258 (kurupira: "New method to bee tested...", Tryptamine Chemistry)
not yet tested by any bee,
but i'm sure it will work
(Hive Bee)
07-30-02 06:59
No 338811
I know for a fact that the DMT/NaOH solution is unstable (Lilienthal said so).
Two things about this. First, "Lilenthal said so" is your evidence? I'm pretty sure he's right, but still don't believe something just b/c someone said so, find out with scientific facts and site that as your reason. ie - why the NaOH solution will cause it to be unstable.
Second, NaOH is basic. I thought we were talking about prolonged exposure to acidic conditions, right? So the NaOH concern isn't relevant. One would soak DMT alkaloid containing plant materials only in acidic conditions while trying to extract them. Why would it be left to sit in a NaOH solution? It would be extracted with a NP and the NaOH washed away with water and then either be left to dry and the NP evap., or another A/B would be performed.
And the sep. funnel idea was not a personal suggesion, but I'm glad to know that you have a real one. I was just giving someone who doesn't have real glassware a different OTC option to the freezing idea.
freezind and pouring is good if you just dont want to deal with the emulsion and dont mind waiting overnight.
MaDMAx is right, filtering it until its clean will eliminate the emulsion problem. It will also help to purify the goods some. This is true in just about any separation. Tiny little solids are the most common cause of emulsions from what swinl's seen. Doing this will save more time than waiting for fairly sizable amounts of water to freeze in the freezer IMHO.
Still though, it is a clever little idea, I like the novelty of it.
(Bear With Me)
08-01-02 04:59
No 339598
Also just for due cred.'s - for me, this last idea was inspired by PoohBear4Ever who pointed out that mustard caps fit 3L soda bottles ...
I feel sooo special ! Too bad I never got to use those nice 3L sep funnels I built; just had to smash 1K worth of equiptment due to some close people going down, and my name comming up.
Maybe one day,
PB
Put your left leg down - your right leg up,
Tilt your head back - let's finish the cup!
(Hive Bee)
08-01-02 08:37
No 339687
That Lilienthal said so thing was a little bit of sarcasm. By the way, instead of extracting with alcocol first, just boil the powderized mimosa in a liter of pure vinegar (5% acetic acid) filter, boil solution down and filter again. I just tried it and it works like a charm. That's what I'm doing from now on. Oh, and if you can get concentrated ammonia, use it instead of NaOH.
(Moderator)
08-01-02 16:16
No 339810
Tryptamines would be unstable if stored under very basic (or acidic) conditions. It's not a problem during extractions and workups.
(Hive Bee)
08-01-02 22:30
No 339907
swim stored some extract in a naoh solution for a week or two. When he got back to it, a tlc for the tryptamines came up negative everywhere...looked like it polymerized into black goo..
Infinite Radiant Light - THKRA
(Stranger)
08-02-02 00:40
No 339942
I had the same results after 5 days or so...
(Hive Bee)
08-14-02 19:56
No 345388
SWIM did everything as proscribed in this great thread here. Even had access to a pretty well-equipped lab. Final product is brown and somewhat liquid-y. I've only seen hard product before. It is also a bit too brown. Inhaled small amount of vapors while evap. was finishing on the hot plate - burned like hell, not smokable. Tasted some on tongue, burned pretty bad, no strong taste. Now, I'm guessing that I either needed to do one more water wash and have left some NaOH on product, or didn't evap. all the toluene. I don't think it's the latter because when I was evap'ing on hot plate it smelled like DMT in the air, not toluene. If it's just NaOH, then I guess I'll just scrape up my product and throw it in 80 mL of toluene, stir and water was in sep funnel, then evap. Anyone able to help, though, I'm just guessing here.
Rainbows & Butterflies Forever :)
(Hive Bee)
08-18-02 00:15
No 346290
I don't think it's the latter because when I was evap'ing on hot plate it smelled like DMT in the air, not toluene.
That's not good. Its really easy to cook away your DMT this way. That's why you're not supposed to dry with a hotplate. You need to let it sit out at room temps to dry or a heat lamp not too close to the product at the most. NaOH and organics that were not fully washed out are most likely the reason why there is no product. Also, you may have a plant sample with low alkaloid content. Make sure that you filter a lot and defat (wash polar layer while acidic with a NP solvent). Extreme pH is necessary for MHRB. Two A/B's puts out cleaner product. And Ether or Naphtha evap. a lot faster than Tolly. Peace.
(Hive Addict)
08-18-02 00:42
No 346298
oil in final product=not defatted properly
lye in final product=not backwashed properly
dark color= ?
If swiy is working with larger amounts, swim does not reccomend a fast extraction. If swiy has enough to produce just a little more than a few hits (remember, yields will bee sacrificed going fast) and is impatient, by all means -go the fast route.
Dont chuck what ya have there. Make up some ~pH 2 H3O+, dissolve crystals/oil. Make sure its pretty well agitated. THEN add NP solvent to defat. Gentle swirling/rocking for the first defat to avoid emulsions. Discard NP. repeat X2 with the NP. Basify with basified DH2O 'till pH~10. Add NP, SOAK for at least a day. Gentle heat if ya want. Swim reccomends wrapping the container in a heat blanket. Three extractions is ideal. Take the combined NP extracts, and wash with slightly basic DH2O X3. Once again- gently add it, and gently swirl. The backwashing that your doing removes the excess NaOH from the final product. No need to soak with the washes, just make sure it has thouroghly separated. Swiy should see a clear, glass-like surface before separating. Swiy could also throw in a little brine as well - just to bee anal. Let the wash sit ~15 min, and it should bee fine to separate and discard the aq layer. Vap. Minimal heat if any at all. Scrape (swims favorite part) and enjoy.
DMT... its good for what ails ya!
Just remember to bring back some of the love.
(Deranged)
08-19-02 23:35
No 346856
I spoke with akata a week or two ago and she cpncurs with locrian, extreme care must be taken when evaporating the final washed solvent - no higher than 20-30°
This she says made her kick her cat when she'd boiled down a couple of what looked like promising 'milky when basified' pots and evapped them down to nish
OD TON DAER YM SDROW -ERONGI MEHT - YEHT ERA SSELGNINAEM
(Hive Bee)
11-04-02 22:59
No 376445
Regardless of what they say on that website, trust me: Defatting is not necessary with MHRB.
And yet...
those clowns used to get orange wax every time...
...you're smoking wax.
Rev. Psi Locybe, insane alchemist.
(Chief Bee)
11-04-02 23:24
No 376458
Have you ever seen DMT freebase? If you can tell DMT freebase from wax of the same color, then you are worthy of a gold star.
(Hive Bee)
11-05-02 14:01
No 376685
DMT freebase, when pure and freshly extracted is white and crystalline. To my mind it looks different from orange wax.
However, most extractions produce a waxy, non-crystalline product. I have found that purifying via A/B with light petroleum ether yields a white crystalline product as opposed to an orange waxy one.
(Hive Addict)
11-05-02 17:24
No 376724
The crystals go from white to orange due to oxidation, regardless of the solvent that is used. If a waxy/oily product is produced, performing another A/B will clean it up nicely- swim did this over the summer on a batch that he had made that was done kind of hastily. After the second A/B, the crystals where almost crunchy and to this day look wet and reflective (they sparkle!). Very easy to tell these crystals from wax...
Loriel... because Im worth it!